You can reduce disc temperatures by: 1 - Having a larger disc with bigger, more efficient vents and larger area to be cooled, the downside is added unsprung/rotational mass (although mass helps in another way, next....). This is probably the most dangerous form of brake problem and for the few seconds it happens the effect is as ba as a burst brake line. 01-11-2019, 07:49 AM I am looking to use the Z3 6 cylinder hub method for the 5 lug conversion in my rear as I am looking to use a high offset wheel and don't want to use a 40mm spacers, so the additional 23mm from this method is welcome. The way this works is, that it moves entire strut assembly over outer ball-joint forward. Bent parts are no fun to work with, not to mention, potentially dangerous. In a BMW E30 doing the conversion to a hub of five lugs has several advantages. The downside is added unsprung/rotational mass. I'll measure it again tonight, I have both laying around.
Used 34mm caliper piston. Because on e36's brake lines come from under the CV axle, these calipers have to be flipped over. This is the amount of heat the brake pads can withstand before they overheat into "brake fade", this feels like you have a hard pedal but no brake power (similar to a failed servo). The downsides are reduced brake power, reduced cooling from the smaller disc vents and reduced thermal mass. Very important to have right control arms for front caster to be correct. Some even resort to running higher offset wheels with spacers. Fluid boiling can be reduced by: 1 - Running a fluid with a higher boiling point. More reading and work involved.
Cons: expensive and rare. It should be noted that brake discs juddering through the pedal are not "warped" in the way many people think, in most cases it's because road pads (which are abrasive) have been overheated and a high-spot has formed. Here are the approximate sizes possible in each wheel size: 14" - Very little room, 255mm normally (275mm in some motorsport allys). E36 M3 control arm doesn't only move wheel forward, but it also moves wheel outward by a few millimeters. This is the effect of the mass of the brakes fitted to the strut, where they are not properly "sprung and damped" by the suspension like the chassis is. Literally, bolt on suspension and brakes and you are good to go. TA's themselves are identical to 84-85 325e with one exception: ABS bung is shaved down to fit E36 ABS sensor. Pros: ability to run stock-offset wheels 15" and up. ALSO, these TA's are reinforced with A-support beam, and extra support at shock mounting and bearing housing. sweet. You'd have to make caliper bracket adapters, though. Trailing Arms w/hubs and ABS sensors There may be a new 290-300mm 4-pot kit available next year specifically for the 15" BBS... 16" - 300mm (320mm in some motorsport alloys). In a perfect world, if finances allow, you'll be going this route.
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, 1. Get all these bolts with your parts, because all of these bolts are high strength and cost a pretty penny from dealership. Cheap imitations appear to have forge line, but then you can easily see cast mark running through the forge mark. This is a hidden advantage/disadvantage of running 318ti TAs/hubs. All times are GMT-8. This guide focuses on these swap options. Thermal mass works because it takes twice as much energy to heat twice as much mass to a given temperature, so if you double the mass while keeping the energy input constant you HALVE the temperature (before cooling efficiency etc starts to come into play).
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056, If this is your first visit, be sure to
In the case of brakes, the added clamping force at the pad is offset by a longer travel / softer pedal. They fit over parking brakes very snugly for my first test. Also check the servo is working properly if fitted (a duff servo normally gives you a hard pedal with a lack of braking force) and that the master cylinder seals are good (leaking seals give you a soft pedal, often slowly "sinking" if held under pressure). First would be upgrading the pads as you get some easy extra torque and fade resistance (EBC Red, Mintex M1144/1155, Ferodo DS2500 or similar pads for fast road/light trackdays or EBC Yellow/Blue or similar for more serious track use) - of course all the OEM components need to be checked over at the this stage, including the cooling ducts. Not having to remove them, saves you a lot of time and aggravation. This will easily complete your 5 lug conversion on your E30. Make sure spindles you're getting have good bearings and donor car hasn't been smashed in the front. Putting legends to rest with logic: Z3(I6) models are wider, than their 4-banger counterparts. Unlike all other trailing arms, MZ3 got giant wheel bearings and M3 hubs and brakes. Downsides are that in most performance pads they work better when warm/hot, and full race pads hardly work at all when cold, plus increased cost. We're going to cover only standard non-M e36/7 calipers: From "Universal Parts" chart above, you see that all non-M e36/7 rear brakes use same pads and all caliper carriers that bolt up are also the same. Many people consider this to be the "right way" to do this swap. You don't want to try and find parts at a great price, just to have to spend over $100 on bolts. On one hand there is a bigger market of rims in 5x120 than in the 4x100 that comes as standard and on the other hand the brakes size is increased. 5 - Running a brake fluid recirculating valve. It's very easy to lose count and spend more money than your E30 is worth. There's nothing more frustrating, than trying to find all this hardware while your car is already taken apart. Link bellow will take you through my E36 M3 strut build. The knee should be at 25bar (400psi) and only compensates for weight transfer of soft springs.
I've seen people drill new holes for strut mounts right in the strut tower. This swap/conversion is called many things: E30 4-lug to 5-lug; E30 4x100 to 5x120; E36 M3 and Z3 / 318ti swap; E30 5-lug conversion; E30 5-lug swap; E30 5-stud conversion; E30 5-stud swap; simply E30 5-lug; etc. I would be interested to see how you make them fit. You DON'T Need: anything else. 1. Note the year, this is a very important bit of information. Uses 32mm caliper piston. There are a few ways of doing this and I will cover all of the ones I have attempted on several cars. - External piston dust seals on performance callipers often burn off, but they can be omitted without causing any problems in most cases. Urethane subframe, diff, trailing arm, control arm bushings, http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139412, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=132194, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=5-Lug_Conversion&oldid=32405. The e30, e30M3 and non-M e36 rear handbrake drums are about 160mm.
You can reduce disc temperatures by: 1 - Having a larger disc with bigger, more efficient vents and larger area to be cooled, the downside is added unsprung/rotational mass (although mass helps in another way, next....). This is probably the most dangerous form of brake problem and for the few seconds it happens the effect is as ba as a burst brake line. 01-11-2019, 07:49 AM I am looking to use the Z3 6 cylinder hub method for the 5 lug conversion in my rear as I am looking to use a high offset wheel and don't want to use a 40mm spacers, so the additional 23mm from this method is welcome. The way this works is, that it moves entire strut assembly over outer ball-joint forward. Bent parts are no fun to work with, not to mention, potentially dangerous. In a BMW E30 doing the conversion to a hub of five lugs has several advantages. The downside is added unsprung/rotational mass. I'll measure it again tonight, I have both laying around.
Used 34mm caliper piston. Because on e36's brake lines come from under the CV axle, these calipers have to be flipped over. This is the amount of heat the brake pads can withstand before they overheat into "brake fade", this feels like you have a hard pedal but no brake power (similar to a failed servo). The downsides are reduced brake power, reduced cooling from the smaller disc vents and reduced thermal mass. Very important to have right control arms for front caster to be correct. Some even resort to running higher offset wheels with spacers. Fluid boiling can be reduced by: 1 - Running a fluid with a higher boiling point. More reading and work involved.
Cons: expensive and rare. It should be noted that brake discs juddering through the pedal are not "warped" in the way many people think, in most cases it's because road pads (which are abrasive) have been overheated and a high-spot has formed. Here are the approximate sizes possible in each wheel size: 14" - Very little room, 255mm normally (275mm in some motorsport allys). E36 M3 control arm doesn't only move wheel forward, but it also moves wheel outward by a few millimeters. This is the effect of the mass of the brakes fitted to the strut, where they are not properly "sprung and damped" by the suspension like the chassis is. Literally, bolt on suspension and brakes and you are good to go. TA's themselves are identical to 84-85 325e with one exception: ABS bung is shaved down to fit E36 ABS sensor. Pros: ability to run stock-offset wheels 15" and up. ALSO, these TA's are reinforced with A-support beam, and extra support at shock mounting and bearing housing. sweet. You'd have to make caliper bracket adapters, though. Trailing Arms w/hubs and ABS sensors There may be a new 290-300mm 4-pot kit available next year specifically for the 15" BBS... 16" - 300mm (320mm in some motorsport alloys). In a perfect world, if finances allow, you'll be going this route.
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, 1. Get all these bolts with your parts, because all of these bolts are high strength and cost a pretty penny from dealership. Cheap imitations appear to have forge line, but then you can easily see cast mark running through the forge mark. This is a hidden advantage/disadvantage of running 318ti TAs/hubs. All times are GMT-8. This guide focuses on these swap options. Thermal mass works because it takes twice as much energy to heat twice as much mass to a given temperature, so if you double the mass while keeping the energy input constant you HALVE the temperature (before cooling efficiency etc starts to come into play).
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056, If this is your first visit, be sure to
In the case of brakes, the added clamping force at the pad is offset by a longer travel / softer pedal. They fit over parking brakes very snugly for my first test. Also check the servo is working properly if fitted (a duff servo normally gives you a hard pedal with a lack of braking force) and that the master cylinder seals are good (leaking seals give you a soft pedal, often slowly "sinking" if held under pressure). First would be upgrading the pads as you get some easy extra torque and fade resistance (EBC Red, Mintex M1144/1155, Ferodo DS2500 or similar pads for fast road/light trackdays or EBC Yellow/Blue or similar for more serious track use) - of course all the OEM components need to be checked over at the this stage, including the cooling ducts. Not having to remove them, saves you a lot of time and aggravation. This will easily complete your 5 lug conversion on your E30. Make sure spindles you're getting have good bearings and donor car hasn't been smashed in the front. Putting legends to rest with logic: Z3(I6) models are wider, than their 4-banger counterparts. Unlike all other trailing arms, MZ3 got giant wheel bearings and M3 hubs and brakes. Downsides are that in most performance pads they work better when warm/hot, and full race pads hardly work at all when cold, plus increased cost. We're going to cover only standard non-M e36/7 calipers: From "Universal Parts" chart above, you see that all non-M e36/7 rear brakes use same pads and all caliper carriers that bolt up are also the same. Many people consider this to be the "right way" to do this swap. You don't want to try and find parts at a great price, just to have to spend over $100 on bolts. On one hand there is a bigger market of rims in 5x120 than in the 4x100 that comes as standard and on the other hand the brakes size is increased. 5 - Running a brake fluid recirculating valve. It's very easy to lose count and spend more money than your E30 is worth. There's nothing more frustrating, than trying to find all this hardware while your car is already taken apart. Link bellow will take you through my E36 M3 strut build. The knee should be at 25bar (400psi) and only compensates for weight transfer of soft springs.
I've seen people drill new holes for strut mounts right in the strut tower. This swap/conversion is called many things: E30 4-lug to 5-lug; E30 4x100 to 5x120; E36 M3 and Z3 / 318ti swap; E30 5-lug conversion; E30 5-lug swap; E30 5-stud conversion; E30 5-stud swap; simply E30 5-lug; etc. I would be interested to see how you make them fit. You DON'T Need: anything else. 1. Note the year, this is a very important bit of information. Uses 32mm caliper piston. There are a few ways of doing this and I will cover all of the ones I have attempted on several cars. - External piston dust seals on performance callipers often burn off, but they can be omitted without causing any problems in most cases. Urethane subframe, diff, trailing arm, control arm bushings, http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139412, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=132194, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=5-Lug_Conversion&oldid=32405. The e30, e30M3 and non-M e36 rear handbrake drums are about 160mm.
You can reduce disc temperatures by: 1 - Having a larger disc with bigger, more efficient vents and larger area to be cooled, the downside is added unsprung/rotational mass (although mass helps in another way, next....). This is probably the most dangerous form of brake problem and for the few seconds it happens the effect is as ba as a burst brake line. 01-11-2019, 07:49 AM I am looking to use the Z3 6 cylinder hub method for the 5 lug conversion in my rear as I am looking to use a high offset wheel and don't want to use a 40mm spacers, so the additional 23mm from this method is welcome. The way this works is, that it moves entire strut assembly over outer ball-joint forward. Bent parts are no fun to work with, not to mention, potentially dangerous. In a BMW E30 doing the conversion to a hub of five lugs has several advantages. The downside is added unsprung/rotational mass. I'll measure it again tonight, I have both laying around.
Used 34mm caliper piston. Because on e36's brake lines come from under the CV axle, these calipers have to be flipped over. This is the amount of heat the brake pads can withstand before they overheat into "brake fade", this feels like you have a hard pedal but no brake power (similar to a failed servo). The downsides are reduced brake power, reduced cooling from the smaller disc vents and reduced thermal mass. Very important to have right control arms for front caster to be correct. Some even resort to running higher offset wheels with spacers. Fluid boiling can be reduced by: 1 - Running a fluid with a higher boiling point. More reading and work involved.
Cons: expensive and rare. It should be noted that brake discs juddering through the pedal are not "warped" in the way many people think, in most cases it's because road pads (which are abrasive) have been overheated and a high-spot has formed. Here are the approximate sizes possible in each wheel size: 14" - Very little room, 255mm normally (275mm in some motorsport allys). E36 M3 control arm doesn't only move wheel forward, but it also moves wheel outward by a few millimeters. This is the effect of the mass of the brakes fitted to the strut, where they are not properly "sprung and damped" by the suspension like the chassis is. Literally, bolt on suspension and brakes and you are good to go. TA's themselves are identical to 84-85 325e with one exception: ABS bung is shaved down to fit E36 ABS sensor. Pros: ability to run stock-offset wheels 15" and up. ALSO, these TA's are reinforced with A-support beam, and extra support at shock mounting and bearing housing. sweet. You'd have to make caliper bracket adapters, though. Trailing Arms w/hubs and ABS sensors There may be a new 290-300mm 4-pot kit available next year specifically for the 15" BBS... 16" - 300mm (320mm in some motorsport alloys). In a perfect world, if finances allow, you'll be going this route.
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, 1. Get all these bolts with your parts, because all of these bolts are high strength and cost a pretty penny from dealership. Cheap imitations appear to have forge line, but then you can easily see cast mark running through the forge mark. This is a hidden advantage/disadvantage of running 318ti TAs/hubs. All times are GMT-8. This guide focuses on these swap options. Thermal mass works because it takes twice as much energy to heat twice as much mass to a given temperature, so if you double the mass while keeping the energy input constant you HALVE the temperature (before cooling efficiency etc starts to come into play).
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056, If this is your first visit, be sure to
In the case of brakes, the added clamping force at the pad is offset by a longer travel / softer pedal. They fit over parking brakes very snugly for my first test. Also check the servo is working properly if fitted (a duff servo normally gives you a hard pedal with a lack of braking force) and that the master cylinder seals are good (leaking seals give you a soft pedal, often slowly "sinking" if held under pressure). First would be upgrading the pads as you get some easy extra torque and fade resistance (EBC Red, Mintex M1144/1155, Ferodo DS2500 or similar pads for fast road/light trackdays or EBC Yellow/Blue or similar for more serious track use) - of course all the OEM components need to be checked over at the this stage, including the cooling ducts. Not having to remove them, saves you a lot of time and aggravation. This will easily complete your 5 lug conversion on your E30. Make sure spindles you're getting have good bearings and donor car hasn't been smashed in the front. Putting legends to rest with logic: Z3(I6) models are wider, than their 4-banger counterparts. Unlike all other trailing arms, MZ3 got giant wheel bearings and M3 hubs and brakes. Downsides are that in most performance pads they work better when warm/hot, and full race pads hardly work at all when cold, plus increased cost. We're going to cover only standard non-M e36/7 calipers: From "Universal Parts" chart above, you see that all non-M e36/7 rear brakes use same pads and all caliper carriers that bolt up are also the same. Many people consider this to be the "right way" to do this swap. You don't want to try and find parts at a great price, just to have to spend over $100 on bolts. On one hand there is a bigger market of rims in 5x120 than in the 4x100 that comes as standard and on the other hand the brakes size is increased. 5 - Running a brake fluid recirculating valve. It's very easy to lose count and spend more money than your E30 is worth. There's nothing more frustrating, than trying to find all this hardware while your car is already taken apart. Link bellow will take you through my E36 M3 strut build. The knee should be at 25bar (400psi) and only compensates for weight transfer of soft springs.
I've seen people drill new holes for strut mounts right in the strut tower. This swap/conversion is called many things: E30 4-lug to 5-lug; E30 4x100 to 5x120; E36 M3 and Z3 / 318ti swap; E30 5-lug conversion; E30 5-lug swap; E30 5-stud conversion; E30 5-stud swap; simply E30 5-lug; etc. I would be interested to see how you make them fit. You DON'T Need: anything else. 1. Note the year, this is a very important bit of information. Uses 32mm caliper piston. There are a few ways of doing this and I will cover all of the ones I have attempted on several cars. - External piston dust seals on performance callipers often burn off, but they can be omitted without causing any problems in most cases. Urethane subframe, diff, trailing arm, control arm bushings, http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139412, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=132194, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=5-Lug_Conversion&oldid=32405. The e30, e30M3 and non-M e36 rear handbrake drums are about 160mm.
Instruction:-Remove the 4 lug hubs-Press in the 5 lug hubs Upgrade pads often work by "smearing" their own pad material onto the disc rather than abrading the disc, thereby dodging the high-spot vicious cycle. It is not unlikely to score all of the parts used fairly cheap. I strongly recommend using trailing arms that you have on the car.
You can reduce disc temperatures by: 1 - Having a larger disc with bigger, more efficient vents and larger area to be cooled, the downside is added unsprung/rotational mass (although mass helps in another way, next....). This is probably the most dangerous form of brake problem and for the few seconds it happens the effect is as ba as a burst brake line. 01-11-2019, 07:49 AM I am looking to use the Z3 6 cylinder hub method for the 5 lug conversion in my rear as I am looking to use a high offset wheel and don't want to use a 40mm spacers, so the additional 23mm from this method is welcome. The way this works is, that it moves entire strut assembly over outer ball-joint forward. Bent parts are no fun to work with, not to mention, potentially dangerous. In a BMW E30 doing the conversion to a hub of five lugs has several advantages. The downside is added unsprung/rotational mass. I'll measure it again tonight, I have both laying around.
Used 34mm caliper piston. Because on e36's brake lines come from under the CV axle, these calipers have to be flipped over. This is the amount of heat the brake pads can withstand before they overheat into "brake fade", this feels like you have a hard pedal but no brake power (similar to a failed servo). The downsides are reduced brake power, reduced cooling from the smaller disc vents and reduced thermal mass. Very important to have right control arms for front caster to be correct. Some even resort to running higher offset wheels with spacers. Fluid boiling can be reduced by: 1 - Running a fluid with a higher boiling point. More reading and work involved.
Cons: expensive and rare. It should be noted that brake discs juddering through the pedal are not "warped" in the way many people think, in most cases it's because road pads (which are abrasive) have been overheated and a high-spot has formed. Here are the approximate sizes possible in each wheel size: 14" - Very little room, 255mm normally (275mm in some motorsport allys). E36 M3 control arm doesn't only move wheel forward, but it also moves wheel outward by a few millimeters. This is the effect of the mass of the brakes fitted to the strut, where they are not properly "sprung and damped" by the suspension like the chassis is. Literally, bolt on suspension and brakes and you are good to go. TA's themselves are identical to 84-85 325e with one exception: ABS bung is shaved down to fit E36 ABS sensor. Pros: ability to run stock-offset wheels 15" and up. ALSO, these TA's are reinforced with A-support beam, and extra support at shock mounting and bearing housing. sweet. You'd have to make caliper bracket adapters, though. Trailing Arms w/hubs and ABS sensors There may be a new 290-300mm 4-pot kit available next year specifically for the 15" BBS... 16" - 300mm (320mm in some motorsport alloys). In a perfect world, if finances allow, you'll be going this route.
http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, 1. Get all these bolts with your parts, because all of these bolts are high strength and cost a pretty penny from dealership. Cheap imitations appear to have forge line, but then you can easily see cast mark running through the forge mark. This is a hidden advantage/disadvantage of running 318ti TAs/hubs. All times are GMT-8. This guide focuses on these swap options. Thermal mass works because it takes twice as much energy to heat twice as much mass to a given temperature, so if you double the mass while keeping the energy input constant you HALVE the temperature (before cooling efficiency etc starts to come into play).
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056, If this is your first visit, be sure to
In the case of brakes, the added clamping force at the pad is offset by a longer travel / softer pedal. They fit over parking brakes very snugly for my first test. Also check the servo is working properly if fitted (a duff servo normally gives you a hard pedal with a lack of braking force) and that the master cylinder seals are good (leaking seals give you a soft pedal, often slowly "sinking" if held under pressure). First would be upgrading the pads as you get some easy extra torque and fade resistance (EBC Red, Mintex M1144/1155, Ferodo DS2500 or similar pads for fast road/light trackdays or EBC Yellow/Blue or similar for more serious track use) - of course all the OEM components need to be checked over at the this stage, including the cooling ducts. Not having to remove them, saves you a lot of time and aggravation. This will easily complete your 5 lug conversion on your E30. Make sure spindles you're getting have good bearings and donor car hasn't been smashed in the front. Putting legends to rest with logic: Z3(I6) models are wider, than their 4-banger counterparts. Unlike all other trailing arms, MZ3 got giant wheel bearings and M3 hubs and brakes. Downsides are that in most performance pads they work better when warm/hot, and full race pads hardly work at all when cold, plus increased cost. We're going to cover only standard non-M e36/7 calipers: From "Universal Parts" chart above, you see that all non-M e36/7 rear brakes use same pads and all caliper carriers that bolt up are also the same. Many people consider this to be the "right way" to do this swap. You don't want to try and find parts at a great price, just to have to spend over $100 on bolts. On one hand there is a bigger market of rims in 5x120 than in the 4x100 that comes as standard and on the other hand the brakes size is increased. 5 - Running a brake fluid recirculating valve. It's very easy to lose count and spend more money than your E30 is worth. There's nothing more frustrating, than trying to find all this hardware while your car is already taken apart. Link bellow will take you through my E36 M3 strut build. The knee should be at 25bar (400psi) and only compensates for weight transfer of soft springs.
I've seen people drill new holes for strut mounts right in the strut tower. This swap/conversion is called many things: E30 4-lug to 5-lug; E30 4x100 to 5x120; E36 M3 and Z3 / 318ti swap; E30 5-lug conversion; E30 5-lug swap; E30 5-stud conversion; E30 5-stud swap; simply E30 5-lug; etc. I would be interested to see how you make them fit. You DON'T Need: anything else. 1. Note the year, this is a very important bit of information. Uses 32mm caliper piston. There are a few ways of doing this and I will cover all of the ones I have attempted on several cars. - External piston dust seals on performance callipers often burn off, but they can be omitted without causing any problems in most cases. Urethane subframe, diff, trailing arm, control arm bushings, http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139412, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=132194, http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=139231, https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php?title=5-Lug_Conversion&oldid=32405. The e30, e30M3 and non-M e36 rear handbrake drums are about 160mm.
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