Esparza says. At Esparza's most recent restaurant, art is much more than decor; it's a part of the restaurant's identity. Inside, nearly every square inch of wall is covered in paint. The 51-year-old chef was also named to the Arizona Culinary Hall of Fame in 2004 – in short, doing her part to make sure Phoenix is on the map as a culinary destination with a flavor all its own. After her experience with Barrio Queen, it's easy to understand why she hasn't committed. setTimeout(function () { bsaProContainer.fadeIn(); }, number_show_ads * 1000); "I'm writing a book and I'm writing a menu. Chiles, of course, from a Serrano to a jalapeño to a dried casacabel chiles. Barrio Café I’d also say salt, not table salt with iodine but all different types of salt with their unique flavor profiles. Arizona and Florida are viewed as swing states in the presidential election, with large Latino populations that could make a difference in the outcome. Even then, she says, her family members were bakers. “I knew how to cook simple foods so we offered red and green chili, carnitas and menudo.” Because her food was popular, people started asking her to cater. (original and airport locations) Esparza's restaurant is right in the middle. "To work with your family is difficult, but I have that responsibility," Esparza says. Chef Silvana Salcido Esparza (Photo/Courtesy Jo Novelli). Reach the reporter at lauren.saria@azcentral.com. She worked with Christopher Gross and for Aramark at the Convention Center and as the sous chef at The University Club. Earlier in the week Esparza, who was recently named a semifinalist for the "Best Chef: Southwest" James Beard Award, also shuttered both her restaurants, Barrio Cafe and Barrio Cafe Gran Reserva. } She makes sure I am well taken care of and she makes certain that I do what I have to do to stay healthy.”. var bsaProContainer = $('.bsaProContainer-7'); "I set out to beat them.". Esparza says. I’m a big fan of pork, but the flavors and complexity of slow roasted poblano peppers with Serrano, jalapeños, tomatillos and other green peppers, cooked for hours is incredible. At $44 for six courses, it's easily one of the best deals in town. I like it spicy and crispy. And my favorite Latin food is definitely a good, stewed pork con chile verde. I was teaching nutrition to culinary students at Scottsdale Community College. While shopping for ingredients at a central Phoenix market, Esparza stops to watch employees make tortillas. "End of freaking story. "Barrio Cafe was supposed to be like a little Sunday dive kind of place," Esparza says. Born into a family of bakers who can trace their connection to the food business back at least 800 years, Esparza’s early years were spent toying with food but not thinking seriously about going into the family business. "I asked myself, 'I'm gonna learn Oaxacan food from an American who teaches Americans?'" There is no cure for sarcoidosis although following good health practices like sleeping, exercising and eating well are obviously important. (function ($) { "Honestly, there was garbage up to her ankles inside," Salomon says of the building on 16th Street just south of Thomas Road. Sharon Salomon was an instructor at Scottsdale Culinary Institute when Esparza was a student there in the mid-1990s. Her parents’ bakery also served as the neighborhood hierba filled with bottles and jars of medicinal herbs and books in Spanish to guide proper dispensing. When she returned, Esparza was convinced one of the South's most-prized culinary traditions could, in fact, be traced back to Mexico. Finally, the hot tortillas slide onto a conveyor belt, where gloved employees bundle them in clear plastic bags. Her next project: open a Mexican barbecue restaurant. "I don't like people to tell me their story," Esparza says, sitting in the dining room at Barrio Cafe Gran Reserva. Vitals: Silvana Salcido Esparza was born in Los Angeles, California and grew up in the San Joaquin Valley. “Do one thing and then the next. Follow her on Instagram at laurensaria, on Twitter at lhsaria and on Facebook at facebook.com/lsaria. She's been close to signing a deal, but hasn't found the perfect space. Smoke wafts toward the ceiling of the matchbox-size kitchen at Barrio Cafe Gran Reserva as chef Silvana Salcido Esparza cooks verdolagas over an orange-blue flame. Do I want meat or chicken or fish or just vegetables? "I don't even think she asked me, I just offered her money," Salomon says. } Esparza went through a contentious split with her partners in the Barrio Queen restaurants, Steve Rosenfield and Linda Nash, and despite Esparza's claim to the Barrio Cafe, the partners retained the rights to Barrio Queen. They scrubbed. Now she's busy training the next generation. "I like to be the one telling the story. "That way we can contain it.". It’s a humble structure, small and clearly well-loved. "Sick enough to know I'm sick and well enough to feel, well, the glass is still half full.". I saw garbage and vermin. "I've always been a sick person, since I was little," Esparza says. "I heard a long time ago from talk radio, somebody said: Hey how do you measure success?" Barrio Café . In a single bite, tradition meets innovation on a plate. It was a far cry from what diners expected. Copyright ©2020 Edible Phoenix. She’s written two books, and she’s currently working on a third; truly an impressive feat for any writer. I didn’t feel it. Subscribe to azcentral.com today. Her medical team painted a grim prognosis and prescribed mega-doses of steroids. Whether they're ready or not. She lived for several weeks in a hut on the beach swimming every afternoon in a stretch of clear blue ocean. The chef says she decided to get tested for the virus on Tuesday evening. AZ International Auto Show & New Car Buyer's Guide 2020 Model Year, Your California Privacy Rights/Privacy Policy. In addition to a healthy lifestyle, prednisone is often used to treat the painful episodes that many patients suffer. The James Beard Award finalist is known for her activism outside the kitchen. And the cochinita pibil. She is described … They were among the most popular at the event. Out of a negative always comes a positive.". After graduating, Esparza took time to travel through Mexico. Our conversation is peppered with little life lessons in the form of Mexican proverbs. "My employees are writing to me and saying thank you for not putting our lives in danger," Esparza said. Follow her on Instagram at laurensaria, on Twitter at lhsaria and on Facebook at facebook.com/lsaria. "I thought, it's going to be my only restaurant. It’s Sunday and I am in the supermarket walking aimlessly up and down the aisles hoping for an epiphany about what to make for dinner. Chef Silvana Salcido Esparza, Phoenix, Arizona. They spent months fixing up the space, which previously had been home to a neighborhood Italian joint and later another Mexican restaurant, before opening the doors "on a shoestring," Salomon says, in 2002. I have a deep, deep love of my culture and I love to show that off. Having what can be a debilitating disease has not slowed her down. They scraped and painted. These days he's her right-hand man, traveling with her across the country to cook and overseeing Barrio Cafe's catering when he's in town. In the video, she explains why she wanted to be tested: not only has the chef recently traveled abroad, she also has an inflammatory disease called sarcoidosis, which compromises her immune system. Or the perfect partner. Her heritage is reflected back in each of her restaurants, in the local artists showcased in her décor and of course, in her food. Mostly they sat obediently during my lectures counting the minutes until they could return to their knives and the stove while I rambled on about fruits and vegetables. For more stories that matter, subscribe to azcentral.com. Barrio Avion Airport NOT related to BARRIO QUEEN in any way Furthermore, I told developers I wouldn’t open a place there unless they let me paint a mural in the airport. My sense of urgency about food and my career is so much that — just my love of Mexican food. Esparza and her then-partner Wendy Grubler raised a total of $38,000 to open Barrio Cafe from Salomon and both their families. "I'll worry about my wallet later," Esparza told The Arizona Republic on Wednesday. "Before I opened Barrio Cafe.". Bread is the beginning of everything.”, Current passion project: “I’d have to say Barrio Queen, which we just opened in December. She comes from a long line of cooks and bakers and was trained by her grandmother and parents, in business and in the kitchen. Along with Barrio Café, Salcido Esparza owns 4 other restaurants in the Phoenix Valley: Barrio Urbano at 7th Ave and Montebello, Barrio Avion and Barrio Café Airport — both at Sky Harbor Airport and Barrio Gran Reserva on Grand Avenue. Esparza says she wanted to get tested because after returning from traveling outside of the U.S. she was in contact with friends and family who also have health factors that could put them at high risk if they were to contract the coronavirus that causes COVID-19. var bsaProContainer = $('.bsaProContainer-3'); The other students liked her. Esparza did not seem to be a prime candidate for sarcoidosis: The disease most often appears in 20- to 40-year-olds (she was older) and is much more common in African Americans than any other group (Esparza identifies as Mexican). They laid tile. Chef Silvana makes cooking inspired Mexican food look positively bad. Of course she went to Mexico, the land of her family. She has been an outspoken advocate for all citizens, especially for those of Mexican heritage. Barrio Café Airport . if ( number_hide_ads > 0 ) { We’ve had our hands in bread for generations and were pioneers in Mexican bakeries, major manufacturers of bread. The neighborhood, known for being Phoenix's quirky art district, is an eclectic mix of galleries, boutiques, coffee shops and salons that stretches from Interstate 10 to Seventh Street.

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