spar urethane sealer

I am wondering if I should switch to using the General Finishes 450 exterior water base finish you have recommended. Should see a wide temperature range though. You can certainly flood the surface and then wipe off the excess, but I personally like to wipe it on with a folded rag. I just assume since this stuff says to use it on bar tops that it would be durable enough for a table. Thanks for your help! We hired professional stainers to stain & poly all the extensive woodwork in our newly constructed house, They’ve done a great job using Old Masters gel stain followed by Sikkens spray-on water-based satin polyurethane, which they sand after 2 coats and it leaves a beautiful finish. If the brush marks are not severe, you should be able to flatten most of it out without incident. So keep it simple and life will be much easier in the shop. Should I fill those gaps with the spar up to the top of the 1X4? But again, if you are applying a coat per day, there is no need to sand unless you want a super smooth finish. So I think a sanding is probably in order. I saw on your site that you recommend a 50/50 mix, which I did, it’s wonderful – it LOOKS perfect. Some areas are noticeable “dry” looking with brush strokes long after it dries. I’ve already opened the Zar and don’t want to be wasteful. But if you don’t do the initial sanding, the surface could and probably will feel gritty and rough. Thanks for your wonderfully detailed – and patient – help for all of us. Woodwhisperer, you are the expert using Epifanes, what does the “can” say on how to apply to make the wood last ? How long should we wait before we install the treads for use (to be walked on)? I pick up the doors in a few days! "ItemImage": "//sherwin.scene7.com/is/image/sw/paint_template-1?layer=comp&wid=250&fmt=jpeg&qlt=92%2c0&op_sharpen=0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=0.0%2c0.0%2c0%2c0&iccEmbed=0&printRes=150&_tparam_layer_1_src=sw/630520444-minwax-helmsman-waterbased-spar-urethane-clear-satin-1Q", So it’s more about the finish curing properly between applications rather than the sanding. Refinished my front entry doors using minwax stain then finished with Helmsman Spar Urethane semi gloss. So, now I am stuck. "sales_number": "6501-02676" Just wanted to say, this article has been very helpful. You only have one coat on there so it shouldn’t be too hard to get below the problem area. Much easier to control and you can tap the dust out to extend the life of the sponge. Any specific product recommendations for the adhessive or protective coating? I hate to say it buddy but you might be looking at a strip and refinish. "15779": "650102742", }, I will try the oak baseboard first as you suggest Woodwhisperer and consider tile as you suggest Johnny Mack as a backup in case the oak does not work out. Basically, once you get the topcoat on, the finishing methods/techniques are much like what’s used on an automobile. Im working on two Mohogany front doors that were severly weatherd ,I striped them, bleached them ,than sanded with 120 grit sandpaper,the problem is the stain took too dark in some ereas and light in other ereas,i used an oil stain, what arey choices, also can i add color to hellsman finnish. Click to add item "Minwax® Helmsman® Clear Spar Urethane Spray - 11.5 oz." "Base_Clear": 76 But that’s what I do. As Justin can attest to, its not a death sentence for your wood items to be finished with Helmsman. varnish satin or semi-gloss finish with very little failure …lately, I’ve green using ext. Just remember that when you use a wipe-on urethane, you aren’t trying to flooding on a real thick layer. First day sanding then the 2nd and 3rd day applying a coat of satin finish clear (ZAR) varnish. but don’t have a spray gun and i heard brushing is no good. Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations, Select the department you want to search in, All customers get FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon, Household Polyurethanes, Shellac & Varnish, Price and other details may vary based on size and color. 6 coats of a wiped-on spar varnish sounds like a reasonable film finish. Sometimes the haze just kind of goes away. If so, that would bee this door third sand. Hi there, I just built a tiki bar in an semi covered outdoor pool area. Sorry the finish is starting to go south. An oil/varnish blend is just such a compromise. I believe it took him over a month to achieve the results he was going for, as we were unable to use our garage for that entire time since he was using it as his workspace. But if it were me, I’d stick with oil-based products if the end goal is a varnished door. I stained my hand rails and then paint it with spar urethane few weeks ago but the coat seem to be soft when you apply finger nail force. Its not worth the extra bucks. I would probably recommend giving the floor a light scuff sanding with 320 grit paper just to rough it up a bit while also smoothing out any bumps or dust nibs. Hi Marc – I am using the term ‘beading’ to describe how the varnish behaves after I apply a thin coat using the technique described in your video. I purchased beech countertops and sanded them down to 220, added a Kona oil based stain from rust-oleum, which has turned out beautifully. "uniqueID": "7000000000000365533" As I said, shots in the dark. What are my options? Also, the plywood will have carpet on it. OK. "name": "Container Size", Again, test before committing to the whole project. I use various widths depending on how big the pieces are. I’m concerned from reading around about the documents being altered in a bad way from the urethane. It is attached to 3/8 plywood. But if there is no stain involved, there’s no reason you can’t give the surface a light sanding after the first coat. If the putty is under the film finish, which it sounds like it is, then the stain isn’t going to be very effective long term. "displayable": true, Blisters can be bad news. Oil just takes so long to dry, the results of coloring with that could very well be unpredictable. I’m really glad to have found your site! The product advises not to thin. picnic tables for wedding–we’ve been lucky to have 8 tables custom built, each 8 feet long and 32 inches wide, for daughter’s wedding–milled out of 60 year old pine trees, cut down on a friend’s property. Thanks. So wiping just applies enough to make the surface evenly wet. So you might try applying a thicker coat by wiping and seeing if that improves things. i stared using a bit when i noticed on can that it is not recommended for decks b/c they are large and have greater maintainance reqmts. Prime members enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio series, and Kindle books. Here is my Q! When you are talking about outdoor items, you can’t be too careful. I have limited experience with varnish. But most folks like the warmth the finish brings to the wood. Hi Wanda. As a contractor and sub-contractor (in the closet business) I am ALWAYS looking for new and better ways of doing things. After final coat what should I do to wipe out minor bumps w/o screwing up finish. Hey there. Your comments are always very helpful. Would like to know if you can apply spar urethane over a formica countertop? "Sheen_Gloss": 75, Based on your previous posts above and other reviews it looks like the Epifanes is the best product out there. 1 Gallon, Minwax 630150444 Minwax Water Based Oil-Modified Polyurethane, quart, Gloss, Rain Guard Water Sealers SP-9002 Paint Sealer Concentrate - Water Repellent for Painted Wood, Brick, Concrete, Stucco, and Masonry - Covers up to 300 Sq. (0 items) Your site is very helpful! The questions I have for you relate to the initial finishing and temperature control during finishing process. I’ve been reading some of your comments and suggestions. Now there is yet another way to apply polyurethane that I feel is the easiest, beginner-friendly method. The second coat with a paint pad for water based poly – went well but not as good as a mohair roller. Thanks Bob. "AttributeValues": { Have the temp and humidity just right and still brush trokes. tony What temperature range should I try to keep it at? Go to a SW store ; they have it, I just bought another gallon for some pine doors I am replacing. Then proceed with your desired number of topcoats on the front. I want to achieve a show quality high gloss finish. I assume I should apply the unfinished baseboard to the tile first with plenty of glue (like a PL Premium or Liquid Nails) to get the best seal between the wood and the wall and then stain and apply a spar urethane on to the exposed sides. Hey Phil. Grrr! i just refinished a fiberglass door ( that the old finish bubbled and cracked) i used minwax gel stain, and i just put the spar urethane on. Again, the construction adhesive should be able to bond these dissimilar materials. I tried this and it worked very well. "storeDisplay": false, If you need to dilute, you can use water. Should I cut the urethan with water? "comparable": true, I am making a fence using old wood doors. It is crucial that every layer of a flexible longboard flex/act the same. Ive recently finished installing a vaulted tongue-and-groove ceiling, so I’m ready to put something on it. "languageCode": "fr" "name": "Sheen", This may pose a problem being a large surface area and all, and having the rough side up, for effect. There is a whole world of deck finishes out there that I have no experience with. If it were me, I would probably just buy a can of Epifanes and read/follow the instructions. Thank you. The table frame is steel. Is that just 1 coat of undiluted shellac? I’m using Old Masters waterbased exterior spar urethane and I’ll brush on a run and when I re-dip the brush and go to poly back into existing run, that run is drying already and raises up BAD!! Absolutely sand between every coat. So instead I would recommend an oil-based polyurethane. "isBuyable": "true", Not sure how much of a difference it makes but why use the product if you don’t have to. To me, a surface sanded to 180 doesn’t “look” any different than one that’s been sanded to 220. FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. { I am refinishing the wood on the inside of a 1962 Aloha trailer made with birch. I’m crossing my fingers someone here can help me! { Bottom line is if it pours somewhere between honey and thick syrup, it needs diluting. So if it were me, I would probably do some very very light sprayed coats of blonde shellac. I would recommend stripping the finish off the surface using any stripper from the big box store. "uniqueID": "7000000000000005584" And thinning even further would allow you to spray via HVLP, but that’s definitely not my favorite way to apply an oil-based varnish. I am curious if you aren’t better off just leaving the epoxy as the final topcoat? Could this mess with it? After reading some of the ‘issues and concerns’ above. It is absolutely stunning. And quality counts. Unfortunately, that advice doesnt make much sense. "identifier": "ATT_calc_base_name_or_package_color_", "identifier": "ATT_sheen", I am looking for an exterior urethane for acrylic painted flower pots.

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